It was a miserable day weather-wise. A strong wind, low cloud and heavy showers do not make for great hillwalking but we were in Mull and for John it was the day we had set aside to climb the last Munro of his second round. I had hoped my 6 year old son would come to do his first Munro but the weather ruled that out.
The overnight rain had stopped as we drove down from Tobermory and every little break in the cloud was seized upon as the start of an improvement in the weather. We even saw a very weak sun try to break through leading to yet more optimism that the weather might clear to give us some of the sunny conditions we had heard the rest of the country was enjoying. However when we parked at Dhiseig and got our gear on there was little doubt in anyone's mind that we were in for a challenging walk in unforgiving conditions. Nevertheless it was a big occasion and we were all looking forward to getting to the top to toast John with the bottle of 10 year old Balvenie malt whisky he had in his rucksack!
We set off into the cloud, up the very distinct path that leads up to the north west ridge of Ben More - another party of walkers could be seen ahead and our group of seven made steady progress slowly catching up with them. Eventually we caught up with them -a group of German students enjoying the sodden delights of the Scottish mountains. We all found a way across the Abhainn Dhiseig although it was starting to get a little tricky due to the amount of water coming off the mountain. Everyone got safely across and on we went. The conditions were starting to get more tricky as we climbed - the wind was picking up and the rain was driving into our faces in a pretty unpleasant manner. The students had had enough and started to go back and it was becoming clear that despite the occasion not everyone in our group was going to continue. Three of our group then decided that not even the lure of a 10 year old malt was enough to continue to the top leaving four of us to trudge on in increasingly windy conditions. Despite the weather the path was easily seen - just as well as Ben More is magnetic and compass readings are unreliable.
We were all going at our own pace - John was starting to pull away from me and I was starting to pull away from Dougie and Fiona. As I trudged on up the path my mind was asking the very basic question that most hillwalkers and climbers ask of themselves - why the hell am I doing this? Well, the occasion apart, it really was starting to boil down to the challenge of completing something I had set out to do. Both physically and psychologically I was determined to do this and so long as at was safe I was going to continue.
I was glancing at my altimeter frequently and it was telling me that the summit was close. Then through the mist I could see John at the summit cairn enjoying a warming cup of tea and a sandwich! Bizarrely the wind had died down on the summit and I reached a smiling John, congratulated him on his achievement and got out my own hot drink and some food. Sustenance taken, it was time for a toast and out came the whisky. It's at a moment like this, in weather like we were experiencing, that one truly understands why whisky became Scotland's national drink. Its warming glow diffused through my body and proved a rich reward for the climb.
I got out my very damp camera and took a few snaps. There was still no sign of Dougie and Fiona - we were starting to think they had turned back so we packed up our rucksacks and started to move off the summit. Then through the mist we saw them approaching and about turned and went back to the cairn with them. The whisky and camera came out again and another round of toasts made!
So we had achieved what we set out to do and headed back down the mountain. It was still raining heavily but now the wind was behind us and it was a lot more comfortable. We quickly reached the Abhainn Dhiseig which was now a raging torrent. The stepping stones we had used were completely submerged and it would have been extremely foolhardy to cross to the path. However a quick look at the map showed that there were no difficulties by staying on the east side of the burn so we continued downwards to the car and some dry clothes. In no time we were back in Tobermory to dry out, enjoy a hot meal and have a lively celebration in the pub!